Before installation, keep the boards flat in their original packaging at least 48 hours at room temperature (18-20° C). Read instructions carefully before starting the installation. Can be laid directly on an old wooden floor or on any other level smooth and dry surface.

In most cases an insulating underlay will be needed. Thanks to the locking system, the floating installation of the floor will take place without the use of any kind of glue, We recommend that you lay your floor lengthwise in the room, at a room temperature of 18°C.

1. Check to see if doors open easily taking
into account the thickness of the underlay
and the boards. If not, plane or cut them
so that you will have a clearance of at
least 2 mm.

2. After having cleaned the support floor,
first lay the underlay strips side by-side
(they can also be stapled into place).

3. Place the first board against the wall.
Provide a space of 8mm between the
board and the left wall with the help of
wedges or spacers

4. Place the second board against the first
one at an angle and lay it flat on the floor.
Press the second board firmly against
the first Complete the first row in this manner.

5. At the end of the row, place the last
board face down on the floor. the
small side with the tongue against
the wall. Provide a space of 8mm and
transfer the cubing profile to the board.

6. Place the board face down on the
work table and saw with the help of a
jigsaw. Use a fine blade if you use a handsaw,
and in that case saw the board face up.

7. Start the second row with the
remaining piece of the cut board.
This would have to measure at least
30 cm. If not, use a second board that
you will saw in half. In any case, see to
it that the head joints are at least 30 cm
apart.

8. Place the sawed board at an angle,
against the board of the first row.
Exercise some pressure and press
downward at the same time.

9. Do the same with the next board making
sure that it stops at about 5 mm from the
short side of the previous board.

10. Assemble the short sides with the
help of a tapping block and a hammer
place the block on the floor against the
far right end of the board and tap lightly
until the far left end of the board and the
far right end of the previous board tit
perfectly together. Final installation of
the last board of the row will be done with
the help of a last board jemmy or a tapping
bar as illustrated.

11. For plumbing pipes: measure the position
of the pipes, transfer the measurements
and add 10 mm. After having cut the
board according to the contours, put the
cut piece again in place.

12. Door frames: cut the door frames with
a saw while resting on one of the floorboards,
so the floorboard can fit under it.

MAINTENANCE OF HARDWOOD AND LAMINATE FLOORS

In addition to its functionality, a parquet floor has the advantage to be very low maintenance. In the factory it was treated with numerous coats of varnish that guarantee a smooth and easy-to-clean surface. All you need to do is vacuum every once in a while or wipe it with a damp cloth. Spilled liquids will not leave stains if wiped immediately. In spots that are particularly prone to humidity, we recommend that you apply an additional coat of varnish after installation. Ideally, apply felt pads to furniture legs in order to avoid undesirable scratches or marks on the floor. A parquet floor that has been walked on for a few years can be as good as new by the mere application of a new coat of varnish. In case of heavy use of the floor, the latter can be renovated by light sanding (up to 2 times), followed by re-varnishing. If the parquet floor is stained, you can use a mild, ammonia-free detergent diluted in lukewarm water. For stubborn stains, we recommend that you seek advice from your salesman.